Types Of Tropical Fishes

Halogen lamps The (Freshwater aquarium fish) tungsten filament of incandescent

admin — Sun, 08 Jun 2008 13:19:28 +0000

Halogen lamps The tungsten filament of incandescent bulbs is here replaced by another metal, which prevents them from turning black. These lamps can be equipped with a rheostat, but they are generally little used by hobbyists. Discharge lamps An electrical discharge between two electrodes vaporizes a gas, such as mercury or sodium vapor - which emits an intense light. These lamps have a slight yellow dominant, imperceptible to the human eye, which is compensated by a blue fluorescent tube. They heat up and consume more electricity than fluorescent tubes. Some, known as HQI daylight, are prized by aquarists, but they are expensive and impractical for normal tanks. They are mainly used in seawater aquariums over 0.5 m in height, as they help to acclimatize Anthozoans with Zooxanthellae (see page 169).
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Light sources A (Discus fish wholesale) whole host of light sources,

admin — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 15:31:46 +0000

Light sources A whole host of light sources, each with its own distinguishing features, is available to aquarists. Incandescent lamps These are what we use from day to day in our homes, but they are absolutely out of the question in aquariums: the quality of light is poor, and this type of bulb gives off too much heat. Fluorescent tubes Incorrectly known as neons, these tubes contain a gas that turns fluorescent under the action of an electrical discharge. They give off little heat and are available in various lengths and intensities. They last for 3,000-4,000 hours, or around a year. The quality of the illumination decreases over the course of time, however, and this can be clearly seen if an old tube is replaced by a new one. For this reason, never change all the tubes in a tank at the same time, as plants may be traumatized by this abrupt change in the intensity of the light. A used tube can be recognized by its black or dark ends. Fluorescent tubes come in various colors: firstly, the cold white or industrial white tubes, which are to be avoided, and the daylight tubes. The latter approximate sunlight the most closely and provide well-balanced lighting. Also available are colored tubes with a variety of dominants, including the tubes with a pink dominant used in horticulture, which are particularly effective for the growth of plants, as they mainly emit blue and red rays, which are trapped by plants and used in the photosynthesis process. Some aquarists do not appreciate their somewhat unnatural color, which tends to exaggerate the red and blue tones of fish. Sometimes tubes with a blue dominant are combined with white to create a light reminiscent of that found in deep waters. Such tubes are beneficial for corals and other animals from the same group, and have therefore acquired the name of actinia tubes. Other colors are available, but they are less common. It is sometimes possible to find tubes with a yellow dominant, which are combined with blue tubes to achieve a more balanced light.A fluorescent tube is not plugged directly into the mains: you must insert a transformer, the ballast, and a starter which produces the electrical discharges required. If you buy a well equipped aquarium, or one with a lighting hood, the tubes will be provided. This does not always mean that you can rest easy, as the intensity of the pre-installed tubes is sometimes insufficient.
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Tropical Fish Wholesalers - Loss Of Light

admin — Sat, 31 May 2008 17:28:14 +0000

Loss of light The further away the light source, the greater the loss in: - the lighting hood; - the glass lid covering the aquarium; - the water. Part of the light is reflected by the surface of the water, another part is absorbed (the deeper the aquarium, the greater the importance of the absorbed light), and a final part is diffused by suspended sediment. It is estimated that the bed only receives 20-30% of the total light, which can be detrimental to the growth of small plants. In order to reduce the loss of light, you must: - recover as much as you can in the hood through reflection; - keep the aquarium lid spotless; - make sure that the water is clear; - maintain the depth of the water below 0.5 m if you are using fluorescent tubes.
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Aquarium Fish Wholesale - Intensity Of The Light

admin — Wed, 28 May 2008 04:15:46 +0000

Intensity of the light The total intensity provided by the lighting is an extremely important factor, as plants must be provided the amount of light they need to grow in this artificial environment. It is inevitable, however, that some light is lost, particularly if the beams have to travel long distances. The importance of the intensity of light (expressed, for the sake of simplicity, in watts) is often underestimated, and as a result many aquariums are under-lit. It is unusual to find cases of overlighting. The tables on the following pages give the indications required for obtaining an optimum amount of light for your aquarium. As a general rule, the use of fluorescent tubes is generally recommended for water up to a height of 0.5 m.
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Live Freshwater Fish - Light

admin — Sat, 24 May 2008 20:32:00 +0000

LIGHT Light not only serves to provide visual pleasure and highlight the aquarium, it is also essential to its equilibrium, as fish, like most living beings, need the alternation of day and night, which acts as a biological clock. The action of light also makes it possible for plants to perform photosynthesis and grow. Marine invertebrates that play host to micro-algae (see page 169) require strong lighting. An aquarium must therefore be equipped with a light source which resembles as far as possible the one found in their natural habitat, as regards quantity and, most important, chromatic quality. Quality of the light Obviously, the best light would be that of the sun, which permits life on our planet. It is unfortunately impossible to take full advantage of it in an aquarium, for two main reasons. Firstly, it cannot be quantitatively dosed. This means that too much light often causes the growth of unwanted algae, and so it is important not to directly expose a tank to natural light, especially if it is facing south. On the other hand, if the direct influence is deficient, the aquarium does not receive enough light to ensure that the plants grow satisfactorily. Secondly, sunlight does not adequately highlight the aquarium and fish. It is therefore essential to resort to artificial lighting placed above the aquarium, usually in a hood specially designed for this purpose. This lighting must satisfy certain conditions, as regards: - the type of bulb used and the quality of the light produced; - the intensity of light supplied to the aquarium; - the duration of the lighting. You must be realistic as regards what you can achieve: no artificial light is going to be the same as sunlight. It is, however, possible to get close, ideally with a combination of different complementary light sources.
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Tropical Fish For Sale - Equipment and Accessories

admin — Wed, 21 May 2008 20:00:50 +0000

EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES An aquarium can only function properly with reliable equipment. It must be easy to put into place and to use and it must offer every possible guarantee of safety, paying particular attention to the potentially dangerous combination of water and electricity. There is sufficient variety in the aquarium trade to supply hobbyists with a reasonable choice, on the basis of their particular needs and means. It is pointless (and expensive) to think big; besides, simplicity is often the byword for efficiency and success.
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Aquarium Fish Wholesale - Sticking The Various Elements Together

admin — Wed, 07 May 2008 19:33:51 +0000

The sequence for the operation is as follows: 1. Even if the glass panes were sanded when they were cut, run a piece of fine sand paper along the edges, then wipe them clean. 2. Lay the panes flat, as in diagram B. 3. Clean the parts to be glued with the acetone or methylated spirits. These areas must not come in contact with your hands, so the panes must only be handled by their future top edge. Then allow to dry (it dries quickly). 4. Apply the glue parallel to the edge of the pane (diagram C).5. Put one of the two large panels in place, then the two small ones (diagrams D and E). Note the position of the hands on the top edge of the panels.6. Finish off by putting the second large panel in place (diagram F). If you are planning to use decoration made of synthetic materials, do not put the front pane in place straight-away, so that you can add it in greater comfort. Once you are through, finish off the gluing of the tank. 7. Apply pressure to the areas which have been glued, to eliminate any air bubbles - this is extremely important. It is quite normal for the glue to squeeze out on both the inside and outside. 8. Use the sticky tape on the outer side to keep the four vertical panes upright (diagram G). 9. Moisten a finger in the receptacle containing water, then smooth down the glue on the inside of the aquarium. The result must be concave. 10. Glue the reinforcements, wedge them, and smooth down the glue (diagram H). 11. Stick the pegs on the lids. 12. Leave to dry for 48 hours. Carefully trim any excess glue on the outside and any smudges on the inside. Make sure you do not damage the parts you previously smoothed down. 13. Place the aquarium on an absolutely flat surface and pour in water, to check whether it is watertight. The whole gluing process must be finished in 3 minutes, but there is no point in rushing: bad gluing can have disastrous consequences for the stability and watertightness of the tank. Of the possible problems that may emerge during this procedure, the three main ones are: - a pane may break when you are handling it; - you may make a mistake in the mounting, especially with the small sides, if their length and breadth are almost the same; - the pieces may not fit together properly. In the latter two cases, leave to dry, unstick, scrape off the glue with a cutter, clean, and then mount the tank again. If the aquarium leaks, indicate the source with a felt pen or sticky tape, then empty the tank and leave it to dry. Clean the defective area and reapply the glue on the inside, making sure to extend beyond both edges of the source of the leak.
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Best Aquarium Fish - Supplementary Materials

admin — Sat, 03 May 2008 22:15:26 +0000

Supplementary materials You will require the following materials for the gluing process: - methylated spirits or acetone, for cleaning the panes before gluing; - clean rags or absorbent paper; - cutter with a fine blade; - sticky tape; - small receptacle for water; - set square and tape measure. When you have assembled all the necessary materials, you are ready to go on to the construction. Prepare a work surface large enough to allow you to spread out the panes and move around freely. It is advisable to get somebody to help you by holding the panes.Sticking the various elements together (see panel overleaf). Installing the box filter There is very little left for you to do, for the moment, apart from installing a box filter. The filtration system can be planned at the gluing stage or added afterwards. It can be placed on the right or on the left and must be hidden by exterior trim, such as a wooden facing that matches the aquarium and its support. Its volume must not be less than 1/10 of the total volume of the aquarium, if it is to be completely effective. Inside the tank, you must add the following parts, cut from 3 mm thick glass: - a glass panel separating the filter from the rest of the aquarium, with a perforation to allow the water to flow through. Going back to the example of the two tanks which served to illustrate the gluing of an aquarium, the dimensions of this panel would be: 28.7 x 38 cm for the 96 liter tank 38.3 x 48 cm for the 200 liter tank. - four strips of glass intended to hold the filtering material (3 cm wide and 38 cm long for the 96 liter tank; 48 cm long for the 200 liter tank).These elements must be mounted in accordance with the diagram below (if the filter is to be on the left of the aquarium), with the glass strips in pairs facing each other. They must not be more than 8 cm apart. The distance between the perforated panel and the closest side is 8 cm for the 96 liter tank and 10 cm for the 200 liter one. Note that the box filter is slightly lower than the main tank, to allow the water to circulate.
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Live Freshwater Fish - Glue

admin — Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:11:04 +0000

Glue A good glue is needed for sticking the glass walls together effectively: transparent silicone glue for this purpose is available. When exposed to the air it hardens to form a watertight join. The speed of hardening depends on temperature, so special care must be taken in summer. At a temperature of 19-20 C, the glue stays soft for around 3 minutes, which allows time for working. The hardening is sensitive to the touch for 1 or 2 hours afterwards, and is complete in 48 hours. You are advised to be very careful when handling the glue. If you happen to spill or smear some, a dried run-off on a smooth surface can be easily scraped off with a cutter. It is a lot more difficult if clothing becomes impregnated with it. Above all, make sure not to rub your eyes when handling it and, in the event of any accident, consult a doctor immediately. This glue gives off a characteristic vinegary smell which disappears after a little while. It keeps well if the tube is closed with its original cap and stored in a cool, dark, dry place.
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Cheap Aquarium Fish - Materials And Tools

admin — Sat, 26 Apr 2008 22:30:20 +0000

Materials and tools Glass The fundamental material for your aquarium, the element which underpins its existence, is obviously glass. It can be cut to measure in glass merchants or do-it-yourself stores. This operation must be performed correctly, as any slight mistake in the cutting can have serious consequences, especially if the corners are not perfectly square. The calculation of the dimensions of the panes must therefore be made with care, and do not forget to take into account the thickness of both the glass and the layer of glue (around 0.5 cm). The table below gives you the dimensions of the glass required for two tanks of different volumes. You need a base, two small sides, the front, and the back. There are also provisions for longitudinal reinforcements, which prevent the glass panes from curving due to the weight of water and support the two-section lid. In larger tanks, where the length is equal to or greater than 1 meter, one or sometimesseveral lateral reinforcements are also required to consolidate the unit. Offcuts of glass can be used as pegs for lifting off the lids. After the cutting, remember to ask for the edges to be sanded down lightly, to avoid any unfortunate accidents from splinters or sharp edges.
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